Sunday, December 28, 2014

Domaine du vieux Lazaret - Chateauneuf du Pape

 Farai un vers de dreit nien,
Non er de mi ni d'autra gen,
Non er d'amor ni de joven,
Ni de ren au,
Qu'enans fo trobatz en durmen
Sus un chivau...

   
(Sheer nothing`s all I`m singing of:
Not me and no one else, of course:
There`s not one word of youth and love
Nor anything:
I thought this up, once, on my horse
While slumbering)

(W.D Snodgrass)
   
Guillaume IX d`Aquitaine


Another Christmas wine I had. This time from Southern Rhone valley. The Rhone valley and also the whole Provence, is an area that has always interested me. Its hard to pinpoint excactly why, but I guess its many things: The rugged landscapes, with brutal mistral winds, of course the Mediterranean climate, mesmerizing lavendel fields, awesomely sturdy cuisine, with all its beautiful herbs, beautiful wines.. But also as a History geek, the Medieval past, and specially the culture of the Troubadours. Names like Bernart de Ventadorn, Jaufre Rudel, Reimbaut de Vacqueras, Guilleme IX d` Aquitane have fascinated me for a long time. They were traveling poets / singers, who wrote and sung in old Occitan. They had an enourmous influence on the European poetry, and culture of the time, and are credited as an inventors of the concept of "Romantic Love". They Influenced also, to name a few, Dante Alighieri, the German Minnesingers(German version of Troubadours), and also none other than Geoffrey Chaucer.


Domaine du vieux Lazaret
Chateauneuf du Pape
2010
ACC
14,5%
28€(33$) Wine-searcher average price

Bouqet has lots of ripe dark fruits, but also strawberries and cherries. Somewhat oaky, vanilla, strong earthy notes, Barnyardy stuff.
On palate there`s nice ripe, tad bit jammy, strawberries and blueberries. Also quite a bit of chocolate. Really intense mouthfeel with surprisingly strong acidity, and in the end, big tannins. Alcohol is present, but not in a disturbing way, well integrated. Good structure. Leaves somewhat long aftertaste with even more strawberries, and chocolate, also some spices, but at the end this is really dominated by intense strawberry flavour. Which actually was the last thing I could taste from the wine, even after the "regular" aftertaste, they came haunting on my palate:).
Robust and powerfull CdP, made for ageing.
91+




Tuesday, December 23, 2014

Caprili - Brunello di Montalcino 2008




Brunello di Montalcino
Caprili
2008
DOCG
15%
30€(35$) Wine-searcher average price


Brunello from a traditional producer is always interesting. This one happens to be also in Alkos selection(Finnish liquor monopol), so decided to give it a try. Probably a bit overpriced, as very often is the case in Alko, not always though.
I haven`t actually tasted a Brunello for a long time, and I thought Christmas time would be a good excuse to open one up. It `s without a doubt one of my favorite wine styles in the world (but not so fond of the over-oaked, overripe and over concentrated style). Drinking this of course way too young, but was just too curious to taste this..

Bouqet has loads of ripe dark fruits; plums, figs. Also tar, liquorice, some smokiness. In the background ther`s hints of wet, rotten wood with mushroomy earthy notes. Surprisingly open right after opening, but with decanting the nose becomes much more fruit driven.
On the palate it`s medium bodied, driven by nicely intense dark fruits with earth, dark chocolate, smokiness, and surprisingly strong minerality in the background. The tannins are fierce in the finish, but not unpleasant, also quite a bit of nervous acidity.
Leaves an impressively long aftertaste with dark chocolate, spices, smoke, and in the center, nice bright cherry marmelade, which, after minutes I could still taste. The 15% alcohol is very well hidden. Delicious, powerfull,  traditional, and structured Brunello. Will age beautifully.
91

Monday, December 15, 2014

De Forville - Barbaresco 2008 / Ugo Lequio - Barbaresco 2011


I just arrived at Finnish countryside, central Finland, in the eastern shores of Lake Päijänne(second largest lake of Finland btw.) The first thing I always do when in countryside, is to go to a Sauna; no matter what the weather or season is, it`s mandatory:) First snow had just fallen, calming the landscape, giving everything a long-awaited tranquility. In December, just before the first snow, the nature seems always somehow restless and unease, like she just doesn´t know how to behave. But finally when the first snow falls, it´s like a warm blanket over the landscape, allowing the nature to go in to a peaceful and long winter slumber.
After the sauna, the mood was quite perfect for tasting some wines. Something warming was in place. So we decided to taste these two gorgeous, traditional Barbaresco. Young wines. Two different vintages, which is always interesting and enlightening.

Ugo Lequio
Barbaresco
2011
Gallina
DOCG
15%

Curious to taste this, as I tasted the previous vintage just month ago.
Happy to have them in cellar. Both are good vintages.
2010 seems a bit more classical and austere. Also what really was surprising is that 2010 had some interesting secondary notes, lacking in 2011: mentholy stuff, eucalyptus, black tea. Only 1 year more in bottle does that?.. or just the vintage?. 2010 has 14%  and 2011 15%. 2011 was infact a hotter year.
The bouqet is just very pretty; bright rasberry, cherry, leather, hint of wood, rose petals. Quite candyesque, cherry marmelade. nice!
Mouthfeel is intense, gorgeous focused rasberry and cherry, even some strawberries. Despite the fruitiness, the midpalate is still quite savory. Big tannins. quite strong accidity. Leaves a medium to long aftertaste with delicious cherry and rasberry notes rounded with smokyness. 15% alcohol does not show at all. Beautiful, classical, structured Barbaresco. In my opinion even better than 2010. Just a bit more umpf and character. This will age gorgeously.
92-94


De Forville
Barbaresco
2008
DOCG
14%

A friend of mine in Langhe used to work in this winery during he`s summer vacation`s (nowadays he`s a Professor  in Torino university). Through him I`ve come to know this lovely winery, which I have had also the pleasure of visiting few times. I was pleased to note that Kerin O`Keefe features this winery also in her new book "Barolo and Barbaresco, king and queen of Italian wines".

I`ve already reviewed this wine. But hey, why not give it another go, interesting to see how it shows alongside with another traditional Barbaresco, from different vintage. 2008 is considered a classical, and in some cases a bit restrained vintage, which infact this wine also confirms.
Ok, this is a bit darker one. It`s actually not surprising as the Nebbiolo grapes of Ugo Lequio wines come from Gallina vineyard, which tend to be very light in color.
Bouget is also a bit darker; loads of smoke, leather, moss, cedar, autumn leaves. tar. Quite etheral, with Burgundian "Sous bois" elements. Quite intriguing and complex.
Palate is round, balanced but powerfull. Restrained dark cherries, rose petals, tar, spices. Very savory, salty, almost soy sauce like. This wine has actually some barley characters. Fruit is not as bright and focused as in Ugo Lequio ( 2008 vintage?). Tannins are huge, although starting to show a good balance already. Medium aftertaste with tar and spices.
92+

Friday, December 5, 2014

Giacomo Fenocchio - Barolo 2010

Giacomo Fenocchio
Barolo "Normale"
2010
DOCG
14,0%
30€(35$) Wine-searcher average price


Giacomo Fennochio is respected as a highly traditional Barolo producer, and has in fact kind of a reputation as a cult Winery. I haven`t tasted this Barolo before, though it has been in Alko`s (Finnish liqour monopol) selection for years. I`ve tasted the single vineyard bottling "Barolo Bussia", and as far as I can remember, it was excellent. So this is their "Barolo normale" a blend from different vineyards.
Pretty, and very rustic nose; pine needles, leather, tobacco leaves, smokiness, sour cherries and strawberries.
In the first attack there`s some red and dark berries, rose petals, and earth. Quite surprised by the nicely bright, yet restrained fruitiness that`s coating the palate. Firm structure, grippy tannins, good acidity, which is pretty obvious for a young and traditional Barolo.
The fruit tries to fight back against the structure and tannins, and kind of survives the whole journey, ending in a long and intriguing aftertaste: bone dry, ashy tannins, tobacco leaves, earth with sweetish, smoky fruit. Im quite surprised by the lenght and depth of the aftertaste. Which for me, with the bouqet, is the best part of the wine. It just floats beautifully, like the ethereally fragile Oboe in the opening of Mozart`s Serenade No.10, Adagio,K361. ("Yes your honour, I`m a wine nerd AND a music nerd").
Smokey and rustic stuff. Despite the youth, quite enjoyable now, but needs time to create some balance. I felt like the whole wine was still in chains, raging, just waiting to be released and show all its power and glory.
89-91