Monday, December 15, 2014
De Forville - Barbaresco 2008 / Ugo Lequio - Barbaresco 2011
I just arrived at Finnish countryside, central Finland, in the eastern shores of Lake Päijänne(second largest lake of Finland btw.) The first thing I always do when in countryside, is to go to a Sauna; no matter what the weather or season is, it`s mandatory:) First snow had just fallen, calming the landscape, giving everything a long-awaited tranquility. In December, just before the first snow, the nature seems always somehow restless and unease, like she just doesn´t know how to behave. But finally when the first snow falls, it´s like a warm blanket over the landscape, allowing the nature to go in to a peaceful and long winter slumber.
After the sauna, the mood was quite perfect for tasting some wines. Something warming was in place. So we decided to taste these two gorgeous, traditional Barbaresco. Young wines. Two different vintages, which is always interesting and enlightening.
Curious to taste this, as I tasted the previous vintage just month ago.
Happy to have them in cellar. Both are good vintages.
2010 seems a bit more classical and austere. Also what really was surprising is that 2010 had some interesting secondary notes, lacking in 2011: mentholy stuff, eucalyptus, black tea. Only 1 year more in bottle does that?.. or just the vintage?. 2010 has 14% and 2011 15%. 2011 was infact a hotter year.
The bouqet is just very pretty; bright rasberry, cherry, leather, hint of wood, rose petals. Quite candyesque, cherry marmelade. nice!
Mouthfeel is intense, gorgeous focused rasberry and cherry, even some strawberries. Despite the fruitiness, the midpalate is still quite savory. Big tannins. quite strong accidity. Leaves a medium to long aftertaste with delicious cherry and rasberry notes rounded with smokyness. 15% alcohol does not show at all. Beautiful, classical, structured Barbaresco. In my opinion even better than 2010. Just a bit more umpf and character. This will age gorgeously.
A friend of mine in Langhe used to work in this winery during he`s summer vacation`s (nowadays he`s a Professor in Torino university). Through him I`ve come to know this lovely winery, which I have had also the pleasure of visiting few times. I was pleased to note that Kerin O`Keefe features this winery also in her new book "Barolo and Barbaresco, king and queen of Italian wines".
I`ve already reviewed this wine. But hey, why not give it another go, interesting to see how it shows alongside with another traditional Barbaresco, from different vintage. 2008 is considered a classical, and in some cases a bit restrained vintage, which infact this wine also confirms.
Ok, this is a bit darker one. It`s actually not surprising as the Nebbiolo grapes of Ugo Lequio wines come from Gallina vineyard, which tend to be very light in color.
Bouget is also a bit darker; loads of smoke, leather, moss, cedar, autumn leaves. tar. Quite etheral, with Burgundian "Sous bois" elements. Quite intriguing and complex.
Palate is round, balanced but powerfull. Restrained dark cherries, rose petals, tar, spices. Very savory, salty, almost soy sauce like. This wine has actually some barley characters. Fruit is not as bright and focused as in Ugo Lequio ( 2008 vintage?). Tannins are huge, although starting to show a good balance already. Medium aftertaste with tar and spices.