Fontanafredda Barolo Serralunga d`Alba 2010

After having some kind of identity crisis and a couple decades of decline, the Historical Barolo house of Fontanafredda seems to be experiencing a new renaissance, and is slowly gaining back it`s position as one of the great Barolo makers. With the house style leaning more on the classical side.


Fontanafredda Barolo Serralunga d`Alba 2010
14,0%
33e (Wine-Searcher

Shy aromas: ripe dark berries, leather, nutmeg.
Medium bodied, almost a bit thin. Big, and somewhat harsh tannins.
Delicious, smoky and spicy fruit on the mid palate, but turns abruptly very dusty and earthy, and in the finish/aftertaste, almost bitter. This wine needs a looooooong decanting. After 5 hours it developed more body and the bitterness and austerity gave space for the fruit to shine.
Good, structured Barolo, but needs many years to reach it`s full potential.
89

Produttori del Barbaresco - Riserva Rabajà 2008

Produttori del Barbaresco - Riserva Rabajà 2008
DOCG
14,5%
51€ (Wine-Searcher average)

Wow!!! This could be the best young PdB I`ve ever tasted.
Beautifully deep and dark purple color, what is to be expected from Rabaja. A bit shy, but delicate, earthy aromas with pronounced tar and graphite, that I get so often from Produttori.
This is so goddamn delicious it`s hard to analyze. Just has everything: power with elegance, glorious glorious purity of fruit, savoriness, silky smooth mouth feel, seamless transition from the first attack to a minutes long aftertaste(lingers on easily more than 3 minutes), interesting mineral undertones, profound secondary notes. You just cant get bored with this.
For 28e, that I paid for this, an insane QPR
97

Giuseppe Rinaldi "Brunate- Le Coste" Barolo 2009

I`ve drinked lately quite a bit of 09 Barbarescos, Barolos and regular Nebbiolos.
A problematic vintage, that resulted in numerous overripe, high-alcohol wines with bitter, green tannins. But there`s also many stellar wines. Maybe just not that collectable.
This Barolo was opened up during New Year`s festivities.


Giuseppe Rinaldi "Brunate- Le Coste" Barolo 2009
DOCG
14%
144€ (Wine-Searcher)

Spectacularly perfumed: funk, earth, manor, candied berries, wet stones, bee wax, tar. Almost sweet. Some acidity, finely grained tannins. Supple and harmonious. Seducing.
Although as dry as it gets, theres a kind of inner sweetness on the palate. Surprisingly chalky, and mineral aftertaste. 
Stunning and balanced Barolo.
95

Bartolo Mascarello Barolo 2009

A Celebration of finished project, and a selection of good cheeses and salamis was good enough reason to open up a nice Barolo. Well, to be honest, there`s always a good enough reasons to open up Barolos:).

Maria Teresa Mascarello makes, in my opinion, one of the best and purest Dolcettos in Piemonte. Also, their Barberas and basic Nebbiolos are highly delicious. All in all, Bartolo Mascarello is truly one of the beacons of Langhe winemaking. But the reputation, of course, comes from Barolos.
Mascarello has become almost a synonym for a staunch and uncompromisingly traditional Barolos. Low yields, traditional Bottis and long maceration are self-evident; but also their decision to make blended Barolos, rather than focusing on specific "Crus", as the rising trend has been in Barolo in recent years, is a choice of tradition, a way the Barolos were made time immemorial.
This Barolo is a blend of Canubbi, San Lorenzo, Rue and Rocche di Annunziata.


Bartolo Mascarello Barolo 2009
DOCG
14,5%
101€ (Wine-searcher average price) 

After few hours of decanting, the aromas are jumping from the glass. Classic Nebbiolo beauty:
tar, leather, and red berry compote with loads of earthy, smoky and herbal undertones.
On the palate hauntingly nuanced, earthy and savory. Burgundian. There`s a kind of lightness of being, almost playfulness here, a phenomenal combination of elegance and power. Though the fruit is focused and delicious, earthiness is definitely the dominant element. Tannins and acidity are surprisingly integrated.
Long long, earthy, and almost salty aftertaste of liquorice. tar and Cuban Cigars..
Beautiful wine from a warm and challenging vintage
93

 

Brezza - Barolo Bricco Sarmassa 2009

Had a chess match with a friend the other day, and this wine fitted perfectly the rather contemplative mood.

Brezza - Barolo Bricco Sarmassa
2009
14,5%
47€ Wine-Searcher average price

Grapes come from the Sarmassa vineyard in Barolo commune, and this Bricco Sarmassa is made only from a small and high-lying portion separately from the normal Sarmassa, and is not bottled every year.

An intoxicating and thought provoking aromas: jellied raspberries, virginian pipe tobacco, chipotle chilies(interesting!), rose petals, leather, a bit mossy earthy notes and crushed rocks. Also a nose that evolves; after coming back to it there seems to be happening always something new.
Quite silky and smooth on the palate; rose petals, bright raspberries/strawberries, liquorice, smoke and tar. Strongish acidity, and powerfull, but already a bit polished tannins.
The pure and intense fruit is upfront at first, but finishes quite savory and earthy.
Despite the dryness and almost saltyness, there`s a kind of "inner sweetness" here, which gives a nice balancing touch. The beauty and power of the finishing lift just makes me smile.
Has a minutes long, ashy aftertaste of cuban cigar, dried strawberies/raspberries, liquorice and tar.
A home run Barolo from a challenging vintage.
93

One of those childhood idols.. :)

De Forville - Barbaresco 2011

A friend of mine in Torino used to work in this winery as a youngster during he`s summer vacations (nowadays a Professor of Agriculture in the University of Torino). Through him I`ve gotten to know this lovely winery, which I also have had the pleasure of visiting few times. This traditional Barbaresco producer, which is located in the centre of Barbaresco village just beside the main street, is one of the oldest in Barbaresco, and is making wines in the fifth generation. Still kind of flying under the radar, but I think that their earthy Barbarescos are truly one of the best values in the whole denomination.

     

Traditional "Bottis" in De Forville`s cellar

The main street of Barbaresco village

De Forville - Barbaresco
2011
DOCG
14,5%
30€ Wine-Searcher average price (we bought a case for 15€ a bottle at the winery)

I tasted the 2011 already at the winery, but during a family dinner in easter I decided to open one up.
2011 vintage looks to be gorgeous in Barbaresco. In my limited experience (Barbaresco tasting of about 60 producers in Torino couple of months ago, and a few of examples here and there) maybe even a bit better than the hyped 2010...
De Forville`s earthy Barbarescos always somehow remind me of autumn.. brings up memories from a late autumn walks in the hills, vineyards and forests of Langhe.

Like smelling wild strawberries and roses in a deep old forest somewhere in medieval Europe, and being surrounded by the smoke of autumn bonfires...
Very intense and grippy on the palate. Almost explosive and expansive. Dark fruit compote, rose petals, tar, strong earthy notes. Maybe even a bit mossy(yes, I`ve tasted moss..) This is dominated by earth much more than fruit. Burgundian. Intense aftertaste of cigars and earth floating around rose petals and dark cherries. Sharp acids, and strong tannins.
Still young and nervy, but this wine will age beautifully.
93

Pio Cesare - Barolo 2010

Reviews of "way too young Barolos" are continuing apparently:)

Pio Cesare is one of the most historical and storied houses in Langhe, and with it`s relatively large production and emphasis on export, it´s one of the most well known as well. Back in the days, their Barolo was probably one of the first I`ve ever tasted.
Their house style kind of balances between traditional and modern. It depends a bit on the wine, and their single wineyard Barolos are definitely on the modern side. But this blended Barolo on the other hand is leaning more toward traditional and classical style. A Barolo "normale" With grapes coming from four different wineyards in Serralunga d`Alba,(Ornato), Grinzane Cavour(Gustava), La Morra(Roncaglie), Barolo(Ravera).

Pio Cesare
Barolo
2010
DOCG
14,5%
55€ (60$) Wine-searcher average price


Nice, very translucent color of ruby red and tad bit orange on the rim.
Intense aromas of dried red and dark berries, subtle oak,(that faded away as the wine breathed), some herbs(rosemary and sage), asphalt, tar, quite a bit of mushroomy action, tobacco leaves and smoke(kind of like Latakia, a smoke-cured tobacco from Syria).
Suberb structure, massive tannins that are actually delicious, not bitter. Medium to full bodied, and silky smooth on the palate. Quite strong acidity, nice freshness, and good fruit. Delicious combination of red and dark berries, tar, liquorice, smokiness. Savory. Loads of umami here. A bit like a salty liquorice candy with a bright red berry marmalade core. There`s also a hint of subtle oak on the palate, but as in the aromas, that faded away as the wine breathed. Beautiful and long aftertaste with ashy tannins, tar, Cuban cigar and dried berries. Alcohol is totally integrated.
Sure, I`m drinking this way too young, but this is showing fantastic balance already, and is just super delicious, so it sure isn`t a crime to pop one up. I have some still in cellar, so will be interesting to see how it develops.
Refined, yet extremely powerful Barolo with an impressive balance and elegance already.
94+

Guido Porro - Barolo Vigna Lazzaraisco 2008

Once in a while, in the never ending and challenging quest of finding value wines, one does get rewarded. Though with the current trend of rising prices, sadly it happens all too seldom. I have to explain that for me, in most cases, good value means that I can get exceptional quality, mind-blowing, profound etc. wine with still reasonable price, instead of getting decent, or ok wine super-duper cheap.. well you get the point. So here is a wine that is one of the best values I`ve come across in a long long time. Ok, I was kind of expecting some kind of value here, as Guido Porros wines have never disappointed, but this one exceeded my expectations.


Guido Porro
Barolo
Vigna Lazzaraisco
2008
15,0%
22€(24$) Wine-searcher average price

Almost just too delicious to analyze..
Gorgeous wine, great combination of traditional style, high drinkability and a lazer beam intensity of fruit. Aromas of leather, raspberries, strawberries, sour cherries, forest floor, moss, smoke, liquorice; a misty morning in an autumny forest.. Wow, very complex. Surprisingly full bodied and fruity, though traditional, feels almost New World in it`s style(but only in a good way). A raspberry galore at it`s best, with sour cherries, hint of strawberries, liquorice, violets, tar, leather in the mix. Also quite savory, but at the same time fruity and even sweetish. Has a very long and haunting aftertaste. The raw intensity of the fruit (which is not fake, but really pure and fresh) is intriguing, and the straightforward deliciousness and balance for an young Barolo; and yet, tannins are there with a good amount of acidity, so this has many years to develop, and become scary good..
Just a perfect wine for me today, in the year of our lord 2015.
95

Oddero Barolo 2010

               Had a lovely lunch in the village of Neive, Piemonte: a superb Vitello tonnato, with   
               outstanding Barolo Oddero 2010


 

Oddero
Barolo
2010
DOCG
14,5%
40€(45$) Wine-searcher average price

Oddero is one of the oldest and most respected wineries in Barolo denomination and whole of  Langhe, for that matter. It was founded in 1878 and is situated in the village of La Morra. This very traditional house has always made Barolos to "reckon with" amongst the Barolo enthusiasts. But lately it`s name has become more familiar to even wider public, not least because of 2010 Barolo`s appearance as the #39 wine in Wine Spectator`s top100 list of 2014.

This is a Barolo "Classico", so a blended Barolo, with the grapes coming from two vineyards; one
in La Morra, called Santa Maria Bricco Chiesa and the other in Castiglione Falletto, called Bricco Fiasco.
Aromas of sour cherries, strawberries, leather and a bit of "sous bois" elements.
At first quite ethereal on the palate, almost escaping, yet not too far. Red fruits surrounded with earthy notes, leather and tobacco. Strongish tannins, that really doesn`t disturb the fruit. In fact, quite surprising balance here. Although this is quite elegant, would say almost feminine, and at first somewhat shy Barolo, the wine shows a second act, and gains more and more momentum, power and intensity in the finish; proving that it will age beautifully.
Nice build up and a good length. I`d say this is a pretty good value for the money. Great effort from Oddero. Kudos!
92+

Massolino - Barolo 2010 (Serralunga d`Alba)

Massolino
Barolo
Serralunga d`Alba
2010
14%
40€(47$) Wine-searcher average price


A Barolo "classico" from Massolino, with all the grapes coming from Serralunga d`Alba. So although this is a blend from different vineyards, with the new Barolo labeling regulations, it is actually possible for the winery to put the name of the village on the label. I kind of like this, as also here the village name really means something and differentiates, as this really is a typical Serralunga d`Alba wine. Serralunga d´Alba is a commune and village inside the Barolo denomination. It is famous for its superbly structured wines; the dense clay and chalk soils really produces long-lived, powerfull and maybe "not-for-begginners" kind of Barolos, probably the most structured and tannic of the whole denomination.

Bouqet is just spectacular. It really jumps out from the glass, even without decanting: just beautiful strawberries, rasberries, blueberries, smoke, leather, earth, tar, truffels, wow, really really beautiful. A good reminder why I love Nebbiolo; you just don`t get this kind of bouqet from anywhere else.
Mouthfeel is intense; Massivie tannins, strong accidity. Very dry and smokey wine, but still has intense red and dark fruit core. Deliciously savory finish, and medium to long aftertaste with nice tar/smokiness/earthyness surrounding the fruit. Have to admit this is one of the most tannic wines I`ve drinked in a while, I mean this is just unbeliavable strong in structure, a beast. Serralunga d`Alba all the way! It`s delicious, sure, but come back in 7-15 years and then… this has all the elements of future greatness.
91-93

Giacomo Fenocchio - Barolo 2010

Giacomo Fenocchio
Barolo "Normale"
2010
DOCG
14,0%
30€(35$) Wine-searcher average price


Giacomo Fennochio is respected as a highly traditional Barolo producer, and has in fact kind of a reputation as a cult Winery. I haven`t tasted this Barolo before, though it has been in Alko`s (Finnish liqour monopol) selection for years. I`ve tasted the single vineyard bottling "Barolo Bussia", and as far as I can remember, it was excellent. So this is their "Barolo normale" a blend from different vineyards.
Pretty, and very rustic nose; pine needles, leather, tobacco leaves, smokiness, sour cherries and strawberries.
In the first attack there`s some red and dark berries, rose petals, and earth. Quite surprised by the nicely bright, yet restrained fruitiness that`s coating the palate. Firm structure, grippy tannins, good acidity, which is pretty obvious for a young and traditional Barolo.
The fruit tries to fight back against the structure and tannins, and kind of survives the whole journey, ending in a long and intriguing aftertaste: bone dry, ashy tannins, tobacco leaves, earth with sweetish, smoky fruit. Im quite surprised by the lenght and depth of the aftertaste. Which for me, with the bouqet, is the best part of the wine. It just floats beautifully, like the ethereally fragile Oboe in the opening of Mozart`s Serenade No.10, Adagio,K361. ("Yes your honour, I`m a wine nerd AND a music nerd").
Smokey and rustic stuff. Despite the youth, quite enjoyable now, but needs time to create some balance. I felt like the whole wine was still in chains, raging, just waiting to be released and show all its power and glory.
89-91

De Forville
Nebbiolo
Langhe
2013
DOC
14,00%
A young Nebbiolo from a Barbaresco producer, that kind of flies under the radar.
Honest, traditional, down-to-earth wines, and a symphatetic Winery, which I`ve
had the pleasure of visiting few times. It`s located right in the center of Barbaresco town, in the main street, right next to Gaja.
Intense color, somewhat dark and deep for a Nebbiolo.
Nose is pretty close, some blueberries, blackcurrant.
Jumpy accidity and firm tannins. Nevertheless, nice, full and even velvety mouthfeel.
Concentrated dark berries for days. Quite long, a bit spicy aftertaste, but still almost sweet even. Just straightforward deliciousness. Nice youthfull Nebbiolo.
A promising Prelude for the upcoming 2013 Barbarescos..
89

                                            

Marchesi di Gresy - Barbaresco Camp Gros 2008

Marchesi di Gresy
Camp Gross, Martinenga
Barbaresco
2008
DOCG
14,5%

The flagship wine of Marchesi di Gresy. Made from the grapes of Martinenga vineyard, the only monopole cru vineyard in Piedmont, and only in good vintage`s. 2008 was indeed a great vintage for Barbaresco.
Nose is beautiful: dark berries, hints of tobacco leaves, smokiness, herbal notes, earth with some funkiness. Very appealing.
Full bodied, quite tannic, but not in a harsh way. Good acidity. Intense mouthfeel, almost electric. Concentrated, delicious dark berries with savory elements. Quite salty taste in general. Even some smoked ham. So so delicious. And aftertaste is ridicilously long; just goes on and on, and lingers with more spices, earth, chocolate and meatiness. This is a Barbaresco at it`s finest; powerfull, yet elegant; structured, but not too austere.
A stunning wine.
95

Terre del Barolo 2009

                                    Lunch at a friends house, in the autumny hills of Langhe;
                    some nice local cheeses, foccacia, absolutely fantastic "Carne cruda Piemontese"
                    with Barolo..

Terre del Barolo
Barolo
2009
DOCG
14,00%


Bought the Wine from a local supermarket for 14 euros,
so pretty much a no-brainer for a Barolo (although wines from this co-operative have not really impressed me, and 2009 is a hit-and-miss vintage).
When poured in the glass I could already guess a bit
where this wine is going. Very dark color for a Barolo,
has almost like a Barbera or Dolcetto depth in it.
Nose is pretty nice, kind of closed though; has some cherries, earth and oak, a hint of black tryffel, or maby im just dreaming. Basic stuff, nothing exeptional, lacks the otherwordly, delicate and multilayered nose of great Barolos.
But all that aside, the taste is nice; very mouthfilling, almost thick, fruit driven and surprisingly sweet, chocolaty and spicy, very enjoyable with soft and silky tannins, also some acidity. Ok structure.
I would put this more in to a normal Nebbiolo wine category, and in that company,
this would be a very nice effort.
So definitely a good wine, but an avarege and soft for a Barolo.
89

"Vialunga"
Nebbiolo delle Langhe
Vincenzo Bossotti
2009
DOC
0,75 l
14,0%

Viini on Langhessa, Piemontessa asuvan ystäväni läheiseltä tilalta.
Vincenzo Bossotti valmistaa myös Barbera d´Astia ja harvinaista Cisterna d`Astia (joista tulee myös arvostelu).
Viinin väri on Nebbiololle tyypillisesti aika läpinakyvä, haalean punainen, rusehtava ja ruosteeseen vivahtava(viinillä on jo hieman ikää).

Tuoksu on hapankirsikkainen, nahkainen, maanläheinen, lievän tamminen, ja jonkin verran yrttinen. Myös hieman mantelinen. Maku on yllättävän "hapanimelä" ja maamainen; vaikeasti määriteltävää, käristetyn lihan ja pekonin rasvaisuutta ja suolaisuutta (Savory). Marjaisuus on hillittyä, maukasta, mutta ei makeaa. Viinin jopa raastavan voimakkaat tanniiinit ottavat komennon hyvin
nopeasti haltuun, ja jopa peittävät makuja agressiivisesti alleen, mutta toisaalta kannatellen rakennetta.
Viini on muhkea, erittäin ryhdikäs ja voimakas. 14 prosentin alkoholi ei tuntunut maussa ollenkaan.
Dekantoin osaa viinistä noin 5 tuntia, ja maku muuttui paljon. Tanniinit antoi hieman enemmän periksi hedelmälle, ja makeudelle.
Viini muuttui myös paljon tasapainoisemmaksi ja helpommin lähestyttäväksi. Ja piileviä makuja alkoi löytyä vielä lisää: Mustaherukkaa, ja myös juureksisia maan makuja.
Loisto viini, jota on tullut juotua vuosien aikana paljon.
Erityisen hyvä voimakkaitten pasta ruokien kanssa..
89