Sunday, November 30, 2014

Guiseppe Cortese - Barbaresco Riserva 2006


Long live Nebbiolo!
One of my earliest (good) wine drinking memories has to do with Barbaresco. At a random dinner, way back in 98 in Italy, Turin, (underage then btw.) I tasted it the first time. I don`t remember the producer anymore, but the taste I can actually still pretty much remember, and that I really liked it.
In general, at that time I didn`t much appreciate the taste of wine, (yes, probably too much experiences in teenage house party "wine tastings" with cheap and bad wines. Not good..) and actually only got serious about wine years later. But I`ve always felt, that it was indeed Barbaresco that hooked me in to wine, and that early wine memory, back in the halcyon days of yore. So, through the years, it has always had a very special place in my heart:).
Of course alongside with Barolo, and Nebbiolo in general, which is pretty obvious when glancing through this blog..

                                                         Barbaresco hills seen from Neive



                                                                Langhe in Autumn



Guiseppe Cortese
Rabaja
Barbaresco - Riserva
2006
DOCG
14,0%
58€(68$) Wine-searcher average price

This is a wine from a traditional Barbaresco producer. The grapes come from one of the most famous "Cru`s"  in Barbaresco; the steep and calcareous, Rabaja vineyard. Barbaresco - Riserva is only made in specially good vintages, and this is the winerys signature wine.
Aromatically very complex: exotic spices, black tea leaves, forrest floor, beautiful dark berries,  floralness, maby some hints of truffel as well. Many layers.
Mouthfeel is incredibly powerfull and intense; electrifying the complete palate. Huh, ok, this wine is a big boy. Delicious sweet and sour dark berries, earthy notes, spices, menthol, tar. Strong, but polished tannins, good accidity. Long aftertaste, leaving you gravitating for more. Addictively delicious wine. Despite all the power, this is very drinkable, but will last for ages, and develop.
94


Monday, November 24, 2014

Amarone della Valpolicella - Recchia, Masua di Jago 2010



Ok, I must confess: I haven`t been the greatest fan of Amarone`s in the world. Sure, I like them, dont get me wrong, just not enthusiastically. I`ve felt them often too unbalanced for the price, and just a tad bit bombastic, hedonistic and overly alcoholic for my taste.
But, lately I`ve found myself liking them actually quite a bit. They do have their time and place for sure, and when good, they can be damn delicious, I can`t deny that. And hey, it was also the favorite wine of Mozart:)
During my last Italian trip, original plan, after staying in Piemonte, was to drive straight and fast from Turin to Venice. No stops. But tired and also annoyed at the chaotic autostradas, we decided to change our plan, and stop for a day at Verona. A very atmospheric and beautiful old city, and not overly touristic (in Italian standards). Perfect for a few days stay. Our day of shopping, and just strolling aimlessly in the old town, ended suddenly, when the pleasant and warm early evening weather turned quickly very bad; chilling autumn wind with heavy rain pouring. So what to do? Find a wine bar, and stay there.. A time and place for Amarone!



Amarone della Valpolicella
Recchia, Masua di Jago
2010
DOCG
16%

Color is opaque to the extreme, like a stout beer.
Aromas are really jumping out from the glass; loads of ripe fruitiness, plums, raisins, chocolate, tobacco leaves. Very intense indeed.
Powerful mouthfeel, full of ripe plums, raisins, black chocolate, spices. Classic Amarone stuff.
Tannins are a quite low, only drying a bit at the end. Bitter, but not unpleasant finish and aftertaste.
Alcohol is quite well integrated, only slightly warming, which is nice.
A good Amarone.
90

Saturday, November 22, 2014

Ugo Lequio - Barbaresco 2010

Ugo Lequio
Barbaresco
Gallina
2010
14,0%
32€(37$) Wine-searcher average price

This wine comes from an old and respected "Cru", Gallina Vineyard, in the lovely village of Neive, about 1,5 kilometers east from Barbaresco. If you ever go there, I would highly recommend the Enoteca "L`aromatorio", a fantastic Wine bar/Restaurant with traditional Piemontese cuisine, and a stunning wine list.
Barbarescos of Ugo Lequio are aged between 20 to 30 months in Slavonian casks, so much more than the 9 months minimum. Very transparent color, even for a Nebbiolo, but its not really a surprise because the producer is traditional, and wine has not seen new oak. Also wines from the Gallina "cru" tend to be very light in color.
Nose is somewhat tight; some leather, cherries and earth. But I had a flu, few weeks back, so I could have some issues with that.
First attack is beautiful; restrained, yet intense and delicious fruitiness, leather, black tea, eukalyptys. Elegant floralness. Nice accidity. It`s a young wine still, no doubt, tannins are big, but with decanting they do become smoother.
Nice finish and a long, bitterish after taste, where I also got some spicy black tea.
A classical Barbaresco, full of classical Nebbiolo beauty.
92

Monday, November 10, 2014


De Forville
Nebbiolo
Langhe
2013
DOC
14,00%
A young Nebbiolo from a Barbaresco producer, that kind of flies under the radar.
Honest, traditional, down-to-earth wines, and a symphatetic Winery, which I`ve
had the pleasure of visiting few times. It`s located right in the center of Barbaresco town, in the main street, right next to Gaja.
Intense color, somewhat dark and deep for a Nebbiolo.
Nose is pretty close, some blueberries, blackcurrant.
Jumpy accidity and firm tannins. Nevertheless, nice, full and even velvety mouthfeel.
Concentrated dark berries for days. Quite long, a bit spicy aftertaste, but still almost sweet even. Just straightforward deliciousness. Nice youthfull Nebbiolo.
A promising Prelude for the upcoming 2013 Barbarescos..
89

                                            




Wednesday, November 5, 2014

Gaja - Barbaresco 2010

Gaja
Barbaresco
2010
DOCG
14,5%
154€ (181$) Wine-searcher average price

No big explanations needed for this producer. A Legend. Everybody with interest in wine in Piemonte seems to have their own stories and opinions about him; some nice, some maby not so nice; but nobody is questioning he`s wine making skills and importance to the region. Barbaresco, of course, wouldn`t be Barbaresco without him. He`s present is almost ghostlike.

Nose is a bit shy, yet intriguingly complex: cherries, liquorice, violets, chocolate, earth. Very firm tannins and structure from the start. But at the same time very drinkable, even seducing. Good acid grip. Dark berries with only a hint of sweetness, almost like berries with soy sauce and balsamic vinegard, quite dry. Also some woodsy stuff, black chocolate, earth, mushrooms, spices. Smooth finish with a long, earthy aftertaste.
In this wine, balance is everything; there is really no element that is jumping over another. Every part is sewed beautifully together. I Have to admit; this is one extremely elegant and seducing wine. A perfect marriage of power and finesse.  Is it worth the money? Well let`s not go there, it`s for another discussion (highly needed in Wine World btw.). Is it worth the hype? I would have to say yes.
94



Sunday, November 2, 2014

Marchesi di Gresy - Barbaresco Camp Gros 2008


Marchesi di Gresy
Camp Gross, Martinenga
Barbaresco
2008
DOCG
14,5%

The flagship wine of Marchesi di Gresy. Made from the grapes of Martinenga vineyard, the only monopole cru vineyard in Piedmont, and only in good vintage`s. 2008 was indeed a great vintage for Barbaresco.
Nose is beautiful: dark berries, hints of tobacco leaves, smokiness, herbal notes, earth with some funkiness. Very appealing.
Full bodied, quite tannic, but not in a harsh way. Good acidity. Intense mouthfeel, almost electric. Concentrated, delicious dark berries with savory elements. Quite salty taste in general. Even some smoked ham. So so delicious. And aftertaste is ridicilously long; just goes on and on, and lingers with more spices, earth, chocolate and meatiness. This is a Barbaresco at it`s finest; powerfull, yet elegant; structured, but not too austere.
A stunning wine.
95
Nicolis
Amarone della Valpolicella
2008
DOCG
15%

Color is very opaque, brownish dark. Nose is powerfully earthy, like a slam in your face. Barnyard at 5 am.(yes, I`ve been there). Fascinating. Some dark fruits, spices and chocolate. But not sweet at all.
Really strong tannins, massive mouthfeel, full-bodied, lush. Plums, ripe cherries and dark chocolate. Long and spicy aftertaste. Alcohol is surprisingly well hidden. A balanced Amarone. Me likey..
91